![]() ![]() ![]() Torque should be able to see the P0128 code, it is an engine code. I'm just not sure if torque (the free version at least) can see and clear those codes. But might also be due to mixing in the wrong. Likely due to low coolant levels by not paying attention to the full level in the coolant reservoir. so if you do see the temp sensors showing realistic data, then it's just a matter of clearing the codes and the cluster should instantly wake up and start behaving (fan will turn off too). The problem is the thermostat valve mounted next to the temp sensor (super annoying to get to) becomes caked with dexcool residue. It's funny because the ecu will report and read the actual temp sensor data even while these codes are thrown and thus disabling the gauge clusters. You have to clear those codes (which dont result in a CEL, and dont show up on normal basic blue tooth code scanners) and then everything will magically work again unless there's a real problem with the sensor. I have an x-431v device and it seems that once a code is thrown regarding the engine temp sensor, the car wont retest the sensor on next startup or even the 5th next startups. The fan and A/C symptoms are expected when the computer senses a problem that could be incorrect coolant temp readings because it doesnt know if its a bad sensor or not and that is effectively a limp mode to ensure the engine doesnt overheat if the sensor is sending bad data. My car did the same thing after a rather jarring crappy road. I have a regular usb dongle for the ODB, I may take look into the BT version. Since there is a short of GM parts currently due to the strike, my dealer cannot get the part until. 695 RWHP / 660 RWTQ 13.5 PSI Dyna-Tech Headers Ceramic Coated w/Super Flo Cats, JRE Custom Rough Idle Racing Cam Package and 125 RWHP Pulley Kit w/ 28 pulley, Custom Tune by Ted, ID850 injectors, JMS Fuel Booster, NGK Plugs, MSD Plug Wires, Roto-Fab CAI, Roto-Fab Big Gulp, Elite Catch Can, Mild to Wild, 90mm VMaxx Ported Throttle Body, Skip Shift Elim., D3 Coolant Resevoir, Separated Clutch. It stopped working 2 weeks ago, then started working again like 12 hours later. The P0128 code doesnt trip the light until I think the 3rd reported malfunction. Do you want to remove the engine coolant temperature sensor without removing the fuel rail and injectors Then this video is for you. If you can get your hands on a BT dongle then you can use the Torque App to read the engine sensors and see what the actual sensor reading is and or the codes that are stored. If it trips code P0128 from a stuck open thermostat or from someone putting a lower opening point stat than the OEM 192° thermostat and they didnt tune out the P0128 code it will kill the gauge and turn the fans on.Ī bad coolant temp sensor that the ECM relies on will cause it to go into fail safe as well. There are a couple of fail safes that will cause the ECM to kill the gauge and run the fans. While the coolant gauge in the cluster is dumbed down some on what it shows, the coolant temps you can read from the OBD2 port are live and 100% accurate. Have you changed out the thermostat by chance? Will replace and hopefully it will be this simple. I don't know if it is the new T-stat that is not opening up (which is brand new GM part) (Also terrible to get to on back of the engine) or if the water pump needs replaced.Just had to order a coolant sensor as noone in Georgia has it in stock. ![]() The water is just not flowing the way it should be. I believe the system isn't flowing right and is just allowing the engine to heat up. Whenever I try to bleed out the coolant for air it starts coming out all together. REPLACEMENT ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR : Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is a sensor that is screwed into the engines block or cylinder head. Next day I flushed the cleaner and rinsed it out again, then replaced my T-stat housing and put new coolant in. At work I put more water into the system and made it home without overheating again. I drove to work with the cleaner still in the system with some water (which said was normal to do), and on my way to work it got hot again, overheated, and I had to limp it to work. ![]() I ordered a whole new thermostat housing assembly and while that was coming in, flushed my radiator with a cleaner. So after putting in more everything was fine.Īfter a week I checked the coolant level again to find out it had dropped, so after investigating I found it was leaking around the T-stat housing. Come to find out I was out of coolant, bone dry. Background: One day my car suddenly shot up in temperature and Idle Engine warning came on so I immediately pulled over and shut the engine off. ![]()
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