![]() ![]() Sometimes they get unscrewed by accident as you're removing the switch. ![]() You slide or screw it onto the screw, and now it will stay captive and not fall out. Because of that, I'd use a wired connection of bare ( or bareD) wire to go from an attachment point to the ground screw on the switch.īy the way, that little paper square on the bottom of the box, is designed to go on the screws on the switch yoke. Kasa Smart Dimmer Switch HS220, Single Pole, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4GHz Wi-Fi Light Switch Works with Alexa and Google Home, UL Certified, No Hub Required,white 4. You see where the yoke is resting on plaster, not the steel box itself, so the ground path there is weak - depending on the metal screw. You also see the metal yoke on the switch. It is likely the ground wire is either strapped to the box (typically with a #10-32 screw) or is otherwise attachable with a wire nut, possibly already attached to other wires. When using a dimmer don’t exceed 80 of it power potential as a safety precaution and also keeping on account other devices plugged into the same circuit. On a 150W dimmer you’ll be only using 44 of it full potential which is perfect. TREATLIFE 3 Way Smart Dimmer Switch 2 Pack, 2 Master Dimmer Switch Compatible with Alexa, Google Assistant, WiFi Light Switch Remote Control, Neutral Wire Needed, Schedule, No Hub Required. The better LEDs (GE, Cree) are really quite good now, and it's time to say goodbye to incandescents. So if you have 10 lights of 60W each that draws 6.7W each that is 6.7x10 67W total. ![]() Make sure you are considering future LEDs when picking a dimmer. So the dimmer shouldn't need it to function, but a newer, better dimmer might need a neutral wire. Electrons should never move on a ground path. Grounds are not used in any way whatsoever as part of the functioning circuit. It's also buzzing all your surge suppressors and the AM radio for half the neighborhood. A dimmer that buzzes is using an obsolete way to dim. ![]()
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